I Have A Growing From Seed Problem…can You Help?
I’m trying tο sow ѕοmе Salvias, Columbines, Butterfly Bush, Crossvine, аnd Cypress Vine. Last year I gave up…thеу grew tο аbουt 2 tο 3 inches high…thеn thеу ѕtаrtеd tο wilt аnd look sad. On thе warm days, I brought thеm out side fοr аn hour οr two tο acclamate thеm…hoping thе sunshine wουld hеlр…instead, thеу wеrе torn apart frοm οnlу 5 mph winds. Whаt іѕ thе best thing tο dο tο gеt thеm frοm stage 2…being a sprout…tο actually being аblе tο plant thеm outside without dying…AGH!…lol, јυѕt ѕο frustrated…аnу hеlр wουld bе greatly appreciated 
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You need artificial light-shop lights with florescent tubes hung from a shelf or the ceiling on chains so that the light will be no more than 2″ from the tops of your plants (closer is better but without letting bulbs touch the plants). Using sunlight from a window means the seedlings are not getting enough light and stretching or getting “leggy” and weak. This is why when you put them outside in light winds they get destroyed.
Also when you start to harden them off put them in indirect sunlight for the first 3 or 4 days, direct sun is not good at this point.
Using grow lights (which does not mean buying the expensive gro-lux bulbs, regular works just as well) should solve your problem.
Try growing them inside to a more mature phase. It will be easier to get them growing outside if you can get them past the fragile stage inside with the advantage of a controlled environment. you’ll need a grow light. Flourescents work very well and most are inexpensive. Transplant outdoors (after hardending off) when the plants are root bound in a 4-pack cell or even better a 2″ pot. Also, the most common thing that causes seedlings to wilt is “damping off” caused by over-watering.
Hi,
Can you stop at a year-round established greenhouse? Ask a few questions there. I have tried a fungicide on my seedlings that prevented “damp-off”. Full bright light, 8 or more hours-a-day is necessary for success.
Well best luck with working around the issues hampering your growing plans.
PR
the first guy was absolutely correct – grow them inside till more mature stage
Q : { [ I have a growing from seed problem...can you help?,...,].
** [ I'm trying to sow some Salivas, Columbines,
Butterfly Bush, Cross vine, and Cypress Vine.
** Last year I gave up...they grew to about 2 to 3 inches
high...,
Then they started to wilt and look sad.
On the warm days,
I brought them out side for an hour or two
to acclimate them...,
Hoping the sunshine would help...,
Instead, they were torn apart, from only 5 mph winds.
**What is the best thing to do to get them ,
from stage 2...being a sprout...,
to actually being able to plant them outside without
dying...AGH!...lol, just so frustrated...,
Any help would be greatly appreciated ,) ] }.
A : { SEE>>.
** [Just , Keep them in the sunlight shed, inside !,
for next two weeks!].
1)-*** [So, say; - asked "LMNO" , " Jack 7122 " & " DJ " !
They have partially replied you, which are correct!].
2)- *** { [Hence, professionally you can establish a green
house,...,
* With the control temperatures, heating and cooling
systems,plus the automatic spring water systems!,
To grown up all kinds of the seeds ,plants,
and flowers inside!],
I)-** While you can have a considerable vast plane ground ,
then you can plant out, around them with the some fruit
trees, as the garden.
II)-**So then, you can transfer these new plants ,
after 4 inches shooting ‘s, in their small plastic tube sack,
inside; in the plane ground, as the new cultivated
plants,
III)-**Hence, the morning and evening sun lights shading,
among the trees branches and leaves,and bushes,
causing to grow up the plant healthy ,
and preventing them , from direct afternoon sun shining,
causing for evaporating the waters,around the roots!.
IV)-**The seasons for transferring the new plants,
in the plane grounds, should be between March 10,
to April, or Oct.10 to Nov. yearly!,
In the northern hemisphere,
In the 07, to 12 centigrade degree heating , at least !
* While, you can cover on the plants , via a transparent
plastic coverage, over the low stanchions,
V)**- After one week, you can start ,sprinkling water, via
the regular automatic spraying water,
after11.pm, to 5. am next day; indeed !.
VI) **Meanwhile, you can get assistant of some
vineyard, with some stanchion, fenced covering,
in some corners of your garden.
*So then during summer times, you can have bowers,
for putting the new plants, or some resting sets,& tables
for entertainments, etc. }.}.
***** ***** *****
OK
Mercy
A77p
Feb.09.2008
Well what i do is start seeds in a little mini starter geenhouse, under a grow light, keeps it warm and humid inside for the seeds to germinate well, then when they show little shoots out the potting soil, i put a fan on them, just a small one, i obviously take that clear plastic off the top to make it effective, this should stregnthen the roots until they go outside, when i put them outside, i put them in a shady spot in the garden, sunlight will still hit them, just not directly, but this point 5 mph wind shouldnt be an issue, just hot sun, so i keep them in a shady spot in the yard, then gradually over a week sometimes 2, put them in and out the sun, for an hour or 2 depends how delicate your plants are, i ususally start direct sun exposure early morning for sun rise or evening for the sunset, the rays arent as powerful at them times, after a week or 2 they should be ready, i dont let the plants outside til they are about 5 or 6 inches, i believe 3 inches is too small, have you tried sowing directly outdoors? That may be another option for you, hope it helped!