Just recently, we decided to add a fountain to the front of our yard. We did take a few photos to show how easy it was to add a yard feature to spruce up one of the most difficult areas in our yard to grow anything. This space was hard because of the amount of sun and heat. It was difficult to grow plants and flowers here, so we took out all the plants last year and found what would fit in this space…a yard fountain!

There were many reasons for the new landscaping project however so small. We wanted to have something that would look nice and add to the eye appeal and value. We also discussed the fact that if the fountain were placed below our bedroom window, we would hear water sounds at night and it would help us sleep. Never mind that the birds would have a spot to get a drink if needed, this new idea would serve many functions.

Deciding to not skim the grass and top layer of soil saved a lot of labor. It was decided that 50 gallon trash bags laid down and spread would stop most, if not all grass from growing up through the new lawn feature.

We placed rocks down to hold certain portions of the plastic from moving. We also at this point started building the short rock wall and tried to get all the rock placement done before adding our gravel. You may use beauty bark as well, we just had this gravel handy and it worked well as you will see for a nice sturdy base for our new fountain.

The sun has always shown in the afternoon on this side of the house making it very difficult to grow anything here due to the high heat. With this new landscaping feature, it will make the space much better to look at and serve multiple purposes.

To keep out larger animals like dogs, we added a short fence to the rock wall edge. We have dogs, but we would like them to not be in this space if possible, the fence has worked in the past to show them that this is not for them.

The new fountain looks good and was not that expensive to build. The cost of the fountain was under $100 and the trash bags were also cheap. The gravel and rocks are free. It depends on where you live and what materials are available to you. You may substitute bricks for the rock wall, just remember to overlap the bricks for stability.

You may also use beauty bark or some other material for the fill. They have stepping stones and other types of bricks at a local building supply or hardware store. Go out and shop around and take a list of what you are looking for and make comparisons.

The finished lawn feature looks pretty good….

It adds some new spice to a really old house. The new fountain area can be filled with whatever you wish, yard gnomes, fairies, potted plants on their own flat stones. The fountain actually cools down this area and adds ambient moisture to the air and some to the ground as it splashes. We saw robins drinking from this new fountain the same day we built it. They seemed to like having a water source closer by to their nests.

We feel this was a great addition to the home. The birds like it, we like it, and everybody was happy to come by and see it. It was not expensive to build and it took only the one afternoon to finish. As we upgrade our home and remodel and re-roof, this new yard addition adds value both to the home owners and visitors.

We hope you liked our little project and thanks for stopping by..

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We could not be happy without such dependable perennials as Peonies Iris and Phlox but it is great fun to try something new. I have been enjoying some hardy Primulas. They object to a hot and often dry climate for they much prefer it cool and moist. Some of them are at their best along a stream of water in light shade. Primula Japonica likes such conditions but with a little extra watering, it did grow very well along a north foundation.

There are many varieties of Primulas some are evergreen and others lose their green leaves during the winter. Primula Japonica belongs to the latter class. I planted seeds of it in a flat in March, watered well and set them outside to freeze. I was careful not to let the flat dry out and was rewarded by fine seedlings the latter part of April. As soon as the plants were of a size to be easily handled, I set them along the north foundation of my house. They grew very fast and I soon realized that I had planted them much too close together. Knowing that they appreciated moisture, I watered them frequently during the summer. I had fine big plants when the cold weather came. After the ground froze solid, an airy mulch was applied.

The plants made fine new growth in the spring. The largest crown was almost two feet in diameter. Finally buds could be seen deep in the center of the leaves. They grew rather slowly for an impatient soul but eventually opened a whorl of them around a stout stem.

Not being acquainted with flower, I supposed when all those buds had opened and faded that would be the end of their blooming but no, the stem grew in height and soon another tier a little higher up opened while those below went about their business of making seeds. The tallest stem grew 27 inches in height and had its sixth tier of flowers before it stopped blooming. Several plants sent up a second and a third stem not as lusty or tall as the first one but very good.

The colors were very pretty some a good rosy-pink, others a lighter pink and several plants had white flowers with a dark eye. The flowers were very attractive for many weeks. I felt well repaid for the extra watering they required.

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General Hydroponics Flora Kit 1 Pint each

We bet that if you try this nutrient system you and your plants will love it. Get all three required General Hydroponics Flora nutrients and experience what science has done for plant foods.

FloraGro NPK Formula: 2-1-6
FloraMicro NPK Formula: 5-0-1
FloraBloom NPK Formula: 0-5-4

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Growing California Native Plants (California Natural History Guide)

This is the first comprehensive book to aid the gardener in making a start with native plants. It takes the gardener through the beginning steps of identifying native plants, evaluating them in relation to conventional garden materials, and learning detailed techniques of propagation and culture. Annuals, perennials (including ferns), bulbs, shrubs and trees are included–with about 350 species treated in detail, and many others included in charts and listings for quick reference.
A few California native plants have been in cultivation for a hundred years or so, but widespread consciousness of natives is relatively recent. It has arisen partly because of the recent drought, which natives survived more readily than exotics, and partly because of growing awareness that many natives have become rare or endangered, and may be preserved and perpetuated by cultivation for their ornamental qualities. The book is in full accord with the new trend in landscaping in which the environment, climate, and restricted water supplies are taken into account–not only for gardens but also for parks, roadside plantings, and other large-scale landscaping.
Because propagation and cultural methods for many native plants have never been recorded, the author spent years gathering information through correspondence. She has also had personal experience in growing natives for more than 30 years. The result is the first complete, practical, convenient guide for growing native plants. It will be essential for the experienced gardener and the beginner alike.

Rating: (out of 2 reviews)

List Price: $ 21.95

Price: $ 11.66

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Narcissus Garden – www.BAZHE.com Aucuba Narcissus Japanese Maple Azalea Boxwood Rose Lily Plants from My Garden. It is a work in progress. I created it using various methods of propagation. BKBAZHE is a writer, poet, and artist. He is the author of DAMAGES (creative nonfiction) —Winner in the Writers Digest Awards and IDENTITIES (poetry). He is published and exhibited in Europe and America. More info at BK Bazhe Website: www.bazhe.com Amazon Books & Art by BK Bazhe astore.amazon.com YouTube Videos by BK Bazhe: www.youtube.com Google Blog by BK Bazhe: bazhe.blogspot.com

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Sweet Viburnum Hedge/Shrub ~2 plants per pot

• Very Fast Growing Shrub
• Mature Height: 15-20 Feet Tall. Great for Privacy.
• Light Exposure: Full Sun- part shade
• Hardiness: 15 F 35 F
• Ships in a 4 inch nursery pot, 2 plants per pot.

~Fast Grower~

Mature Height: 15-20 Feet Tall

Spacing: 2-3 Feet Apart

Form: Rounded

Light Exposure: Full Sun- part shade

Flower Color: Small White

Bloom Time: Spring

Foliage Color: Med -Light Green

Soil: Wide variety of soils

Generally free of pest

Easy to mantain

Large, leathery, medium to light green, highly lustrous leaves and clusters of extremely fragrant, small, white flowers, completely covering the plant in springtime, make Sweet Viburnum a plant with great potential.

Its dense, spreading, evergreen habit makes Sweet Viburnum suitable for use as a small tree, reaching only about 15 to 20 feet at maturity, with an open, multi-branched, rounded canopy.

The flowers are often followed by small, showy red berries.

Thirty-year-old plants grow to about 18 feet tall and wide.

Hardiness: 15 F 35 F

Zone 8-10

Price: $ 3.99

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Garden Trees (Garden Guides)

The new flower power – bright and stylish, listing over 300 varieties, from birch to honey locusts.

Covering all you need to know about your favorite plants in a beautiful and convenient format, DK Garden Guides profile one type of plant, each with its own photograph and a paragraph full of fascinating information about the plant, its origins, and how to use it in your garden. Extremely accessible for novices, this series of unique plant guides include plant profiles that feature height, spread, and details about color and flowering season, as well as light requirements and hardiness; and, finally, a list of other varieties.

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Part 3: Tools and Materials for Your Greenhouse

Remember that you are not limited to a certain variety of plants to grow in a greenhouse. Bear in mind, however, that your preference for certain fruits, vegetables and plants will determine the type of greenhouse you like to build. “Know thy crop” is an important factor before deciding on the greenhouse type you will install.

You will need a good soil for planting seeds. Compost, potting or gardening soil and a little sand or perlite are a good start. Read all directions in your seed packets. Keep some of those black plastic flats that nurseries use to display their plant containers. These are useful for starting sees and transplants.Benches in greenhouses are essential, as they hold trays of plants that have already sprouted from seeds.

Styrofoam cups – have several of these handy.

Seeds sprout quickly and once they grow large enough to move into separate containers, they can be gently lifted and transferred into ordinary Styrofoam cups. You can also use yogurt plastic cups, and large commercial type containers that can hold more than one plant. In fact, any container you can think of will be suitable. Other materials you should have on hand are broken clay pots, cracked walnuts, marbles, charcoal or gravel. These help in proper drainage. Be sure to soak clay pots in water a few minutes before using them. This will prevent the clay from absorbing the moisture from the potting soil.

If you want to have trellises inside your greenhouse, you can make them out of coat hangers, which you can bend to any shape your heart desires. Herbs are perfect for keeping pests at bay. They are what one writer calls “nature’s insecticides”. Have a variety of them inside your greenhouse. You can make a natural insecticide by adding onions or garlic to a jar of water. Leave it for a week and spray on your plants.
Other garden tools that will help you run your greenhouse efficiently are air coolers for the hot summer. This is to maintain the temperatures at desired levels. Power vents in the roof are also a good idea to release hot air that can build up suddenly in the summer.
In the winter, a good heater would be nice to warm the greenhouse. Other accessories you need are a humidifier, a CO2 generator, and a mister. Greenhouse lighting system. A type of light called high intensity discharge lighting

(HID) used to be employed by commercial growers in large greenhouses. However, the idea of artificial lighting to stimulate plant growth became increasingly popular. H.I.D. lighting not only adds to natural sunlight, but can actually serve as a substitute during long winters when natural sunlight is in scant supply. They are energy efficient and operational costs are low.

Here are just a few of the benefits of HID lighting:
>Increases the health and strength of plants, and stimulates growth and yield rates,

>Supplements natural sunlight; by using HID lighting, you also extend “day length”,

>Enables container outdoor plants on decks and patios during the summer to be moved indoors during the winter,

>Are definitely more powerful than conventional fluorescents.

Greenhouse tables, shelving and plant holders.

These are indispensable, especially when you need to work inside your greenhouse and to maximize and organize your greenhouse space. As your plant varieties grow, you will need shelves and tables and plant holders to facilitate your gardening. One popular type of bench that greenhouse hobbyists like is the cedar double layer bench. They are durable and efficient to use. For shelves, you can opt for two and three section lengths made of aluminum.

Given that watering your plants is an essential –indispensable -part of any greenhouse gardening, a
good watering system is required.

You can choose either the automatic or hand held watering system to make your watering needs more efficient.
For automatic irrigation systems, there are models that come equipped with an automatic drip irrigation and
fertilizer system. Day or night, they regularly water the plants and adjust the flow of fertilizer. Some have a tank in which the water and fertilizer are mixed and are distributed to plants via hoses, Y-connections and drip pins.
Greenhouse garden coil indoor/outdoor watering wand.

This is a “self-coiling” garden hose made of rugged and durable polyurethane tubing. It produces ultra-fine mists and sprays in soft, gentle streams. Some wand models extend to as long as 50 feet. No hassle storage because of self-coiling mechanism. Greenhouses constantly evolve in style and design. It follows then that tools and accessories will grow in number or existing ones will be considerably improved. Manufacturers are probably inventing more tools and accessories this very moment that will make our work in greenhouses easier and quicker. The ones we just described are already being used by many greenhouse enthusiasts. In a few years, new products will definitely appear in the market.

Please join us for part four. (Now here!) Thanks for waiting and please check back as we finish up this anticipated 6 part series on greenhouses.

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Chapter 2: Types of Greenhouses

After you decide that you want to build a greenhouse, you have to decide next what type to build. This should not be a difficult one to address, provided you know what kinds of plants you want to grow.

You will need
to answer questions such as:

> What will my greenhouse be principally used
for?
>Do I want a large or small greenhouse?
>Will the greenhouse be the main attraction of
my garden?
>Is my garden exposed to strong winds?
>Are there young children or wild animals in
the area?

Factors such as cost and space will determine the type of greenhouse you build. If you do live in a windy area, it may be worth to spend the extra money for a solid and sturdy greenhouse. If you live near a large hardware store or a nursery, or even a do-it-yourself home center, go and visit some models. The customer service representative should be able to provide you with valuable information before you make a final decision.

So as not to mislead you, while there may be different types of greenhouse designs, we’re talking about the same greenhouse. You get to decide which type you want it to be. For example, if temperature is the main factor, because of the plant varieties you want to grow, then there are three types in terms of temperature control. There are also different types of greenhouses based on structural design. We’ll start with temperature control factors.

For temperature control purposes, three types of greenhouses exist:

>a hot greenhouse
>a warm greenhouse
>a cool greenhouse.

Hot Greenhouse

A hot greenhouse’s inside temperature is maintained at a minimum of sixty five degrees. You can at some future date increase the temperature, but a hot greenhouse is intended for growing tropical and exotic plants. If you live in a very cold region, you will need to install heating and lighting equipment to satisfy the requirements of tropical and exotic plant species.

Warm Greenhouse

The temperature inside a warm greenhouse, on the other hand, is at about fifty-five degrees F. At this temperature, a larger variety of plants can be grown, perhaps as many as you would in your outdoor garden. You may still need to resort to the use of additional heat and light during the winter months.

Cool Greenhouse

A cool greenhouse (frost-free greenhouse) is maintained at a temperature ranging from forty to forty five degrees F. This temperature is ideal for growing seedlings or any plants that do not need warmer temperatures to survive. A cool greenhouse is perfect for starting your plants and vegetables in anticipation of the summer months. Generally, the use of heat or lights isn’t required for a cool greenhouse.

As for structure, there are generally three types:

> lean-to
> detached
> ridge and furrow or gutter connected.

Lean-To
The lean-to type of greenhouse is rarely used for commercial purposes because of size restrictions, but is
the most popular among hobbyists.
Detached
Detached greenhouses – as the name suggests – are independent and are stand alone structures. However,
they may still be attached to a work area or else provide access to another greenhouse via a passageway.

The Quonset is the most common type of detached greenhouse used for commercial production. They are built from arched rafters and have solid walls for support. Quonset greenhouses are ideal for producing most crops, although the growing area is limited to the areas around the side walls, which diminishes efficiency and productivity.
Ridge/Furrow
Ridge and furrow greenhouses are attached at the lower edges of the roof by a gutter. The absence of an inside wall below the gutter allows for increased efficiency. Ridge and furrow greenhouses may be built with gabled or curved arches. Gabled houses are appropriate for heavy coverings (i.e. glass, fiberglass) while curved arch houses are covered with lighter materials (i.e. polyethylene, polycarbonates).

You may encounter different classifications in your readings on greenhouses. For example, another classification, which is similar to the ones just mentioned are:
Cold frame type
Roof cover may be poly or shade, end wall covering is either poly or rigid, available lengths come in 12 feet increments, and no gutter connections or vents.
Ground-to-ground
Roof covering is either poly or shade, wall covering may be poly or rigid, lengths available in 12 feet increments,
no gutters, roof vents are available.
Gutter-connected, Gothic arch

Load rating may be either 10, 15 or 20 pounds, roof covering is poly, sidewall and endwall either poly or rigid, lengths available in 12 feet increments while heights available in 8, 10 or 12 feet, gutter connection and roof vents both available.
Gutter-connected Cable
Load rating 10, 20 or 30 pounds, roof covering either
poly or rigid, endwall and sidewall covering may be
either poly or rigid, lengths in 12 feet increments,
gutter connection and roof vents available.
Gutter-connected Arch

Load rating may be 10, 20 or 30 pounds, roof covering and sidewall/endwall is rigid, lengths come in 12 feet increments, gutter connection and roof vents available. Another way of looking at greenhouse types is the
material they are made of; that is, glass, fiberglass, or plastic. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. Whatever you choose, make sure you leave the installation and irrigation systems to professionals.
Glass

Glass type greenhouses are the most traditional covering used. They may be constructed with slanted sides, straight sides and eaves. Aluminum, glass buildings provide low maintenance and have aesthetic lines, as well as ensuring that you get a weather-tight structure. Pre-fabricated glass kits are available for easy installation by hobbyists and amateur gardeners. They come in different models to meet budget and space restrictions. The disadvantages of glass are its fragile condition (glass breaks easily) and high costs.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass greenhouses – they are light, strong and hail-proof. Be careful, though. Low quality fiberglass will discolor, thus reducing penetration of light. Using a good quality fiberglass will however make it as expensive as building a glass one. If you decide to go for fiberglass, go for the most expensive grade, and do not buy colored fiberglass.

Plastic
Plastic greenhouses are becoming very popular for the
following reasons:
> Low cost (about 1/6 the cost of glass)
> Absorbs sufficient heat
> Fruits and vegetables and other plants under
plastic are comparable in quality to that of
glass-grown varieties
> Lower tax liabilities
Choice of polyethylene (PE), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), co-polymers of these materials, and other readily
available clear films.

Polyethylene
Polyethylene: lightweight and inexpensive. It stands up well during the seasons of fall, winter and spring, but tends to deteriorate during the summer when it gets constant exposure to the sun. It breaks down due to ultraviolet rays and the deterioration begins along the rafters and along the creases. This problem can be avoided by using UV-inhibited polyethylene, which is available in two and six ml thickness and is up to 40 feet wide and 100 feet long.

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC or Vinyl) – like polyethylene, PVCs are soft and flexible. You can have transparent ones. Vinyl costs two to five times more than polyethylene. When properly installed, they can last as long as five years. Because it attracts dust and dirt from the air, it has to be washed from time to time.

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Introduction To Greenhouses

A growing number of people at least have one greenhouse story to share. The idea of growing food at controlled temperatures all year round and extending the growing season have set
fire to people’s imaginations. No wonder the greenhouse building industry has recorded phenomenal
growth. From construction plans to tools and accessories for greenhouses, individuals are working on all fours to
satisfy the increasing demands of consumers who have made building their own greenhouses top priority. This
trend, which started humbly in the 70’s, is now a fullfledged endeavor on the part of greenhouse entrepreneurs and “homesteaders.”

What is a greenhouse?

A greenhouse is also called a glasshouse or a hothouse. It is a structure where plants – fruits, vegetables, flowers – are grown. It attracts heat because the sun’s electromagnetic radiation warms the plants, soil, and other components within the greenhouse. Air is warmed from the hot interior area inside the structure through the roof and wall. How does a greenhouse capture heat? A greenhouse uses a special kind of glass that acts as a medium which selectively transmits spectral frequencies.

Spectral comes from the word “spectrum”. In layman’s terms, a spectral frequency can be defined in terms of the following principle: any object in the universe emits, radiates or transmits light. The distribution of this light along an electromagnetic spectrum is determined by the object’s composition.
Therefore, the glass of a greenhouse traps energy within the greenhouse and the heat in turn provides heat for the plants and the ground inside the greenhouse. It warms the air near the ground,
preventing it from rising and leaving the confines of the structure.

For example, if you open a small window near the roof of a greenhouse, the temperature drops significantly. This is because of the autovent automatic cooling system. An autovent is simply a device used by greenhouses that maintains a range of temperatures inside. This is how greenhouses trap electromagnetic radiation and prevents convection (transference of heat by currents within a fluid).

Curious about how the idea of a greenhouse came about?

It goes back to the days of the Romans, who, as history annals show – were the first people to create a structure to protect plants. Using heated pits, they put up slabs of rock to form primitive greenhouses. The term “glasshouse” which is the correct name of this structure, was adopted sometime in the 17th and 18th centuries. At that time, however, the error was in believing that heat was more important than light for plants to thrive.

Structures were being built to exclude the entry of light, but by the time the glass tax of 1845 was abolished, the design of greenhouses started to change. Builders realized then that a curved roof instead of a flat one allowed higher concentrations of the sun’s rays, and that by using iron instead of wood, the greenhouse could be structurally reinforced and made capable of absorbing more light. A man named Joseph Paxton, a horticulturist, appeared
on the scene and introduced changes to the greenhouse design concept. He was famous for the
Palmhouse at Kew Gardens which he built in 1842. It measured 110 meters long, 30 meters wide and over 20 meters high. Nine years later, he built the Crystal Palace.

It has been forty years now since major improvements in materials and design have been integrated into the
greenhouse, and it is now very much a feature of any home garden. One greenhouse principle is the ability to extend the growing season. Early vegetables can be planted indoors and then transplanted when they mature. A greenhouse owner also gains several weeks to the growing and sowing period especially if there is a form of heating installed.
Controlling temperature, light and moisture is one of the things that greenhouse owners can do; this way
they obtain the guaranteed results they want. Our science classes taught us that many plant varieties enjoy a warm, moist temperature.

In addition to extending the growing season and being able to control temperature and moisture inside a greenhouse, a gardener learns to hone his gardening skills by getting acquainted with as many varieties as he can in the greenhouse. He may choose to specialize on one species of fruit or vegetable or flowering plant. Many have built
greenhouses for the purpose of growing and preserving their orchids. Whatever the intent is, a greenhouse will deliver hours of emotional satisfaction to owners. Imagine being able to grow juicy tomatoes or producing new kinds of plants by the simple act of propagation. Don’t be discouraged by the fact that you have limited space in your garden or that is completely paved or concreted. You can still make use of limited space.

If space is a problem, there are what people call “free standing” greenhouses that take just a few square feet of space, and some can be installed on balconies or roof tops. Today, you can choose any greenhouse frame you want, including color. If you’re not into aluminum, you can build one with a dark frame color or go for earth colors instead.

Let’s mention a few of the numerous benefits of
greenhouses:

>Control of growing conditions for plants to
obtain desired results,

>Protection from the elements and from birds

and animals,

> Facility in controlling pests and diseases,

>Easy access by the elderly and disabled, given that greenhouse are less physically demanding than wide open crop spaces and fields,

>Possibility of reducing gardening costs because the owner or gardener grows his own plants,

>Possibility of widening the variety of plants for general gardening purposes.

> A greenhouse serves as an escape or refuge after a trying day.

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