For many enthusiasts of gardening, the cost of following their concern in plant lives and flowers is a dissuading factor. Whether it is to raise an indoor or an outdoor flowering plant, one must buy sowing seeds, plants or flower bulbs from a productive and temporal and inexpensive source. They can be bought from local stores, nurseries and online sources. Most assortments are available at a certain limited cost range, but customers should by all odds search around before making a final buy. This is because it is occasionally possible to find a favorable price for floral tubers or a seed with a certain supplier.

Floral tuber varieties are sold-out in a wide range of prices — from very inexpensive to very expensive. Quite apparently, the unusual or unique types of floral bulbs are constantly priced high. This makes them go out of reach for many plant loving people. It is reasonable to shop around to have rebates on flower bulbs.

A number of people prefer for purchasing flower tubers from a wholesale flower supplier. Many flower companies offer discounted on wholesale flower prices based on minimum order requirements. These offerings are usually well advertised and are a great source of flower bulbs at reasonable rates form responsible wholesale flower markets.

The utmost impressive means to buy floral tubers at cheap rates is by purchasing them at annual or seasonal flower cut-rate sales. Many florist shops organize these special wholesales flower at various times of the year in a call to generalize their brand image and provide fabulous price cuts to appeal new buyers.

Umpteen big wholesale flower stores offer bonuses for average buyers of flower bulbs and it does pay to be loyal to one wholesale flower store. Many parties also organize out of season sales, and supply a good opportunity to buy flower tubers at some affordable price. Both amateur and nonrecreational gardeners, while looking for rebates should also find the quality of the flower bulbs before buying

I bought a Dragon Fruit and saved a spoonful of seeds after reading about the interesting vines that form from this plant. However, I live in an apartment, so I cannot use a large planting vessel. And, I live in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, not in the Tropics, where this plant is native.

BUT, if I keep the final growing container inside, is it realistic for me to try to start this plant from seed? IF so:

In what growing medium should I start the seeds?
How deep should they be planted?
How often should the seeds, sprouts, and plants be watered?
How long after sprouting before I transplant the small plants to a growing pot?
What soil mixture should be in that growing pot?

Thanks for your green thumbs’ help,
GCC

I got some packets of ground-cover type flower seeds, like wildflowers I guess, to plant in a section of garden area in front of my house. I am not too concerned with placement so I’m just going to spread them around and see what happens and hope they grow.

I am figuring mulching over top of seeds or newly grown plants will suffocate them, but I just want to make sure because I’m not too educated with gardening.

Thanks in advance.

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I recently started working in a seed store and am looking for a way to gain basic knowledge on this stuff as I don’t know a whole lot and even more advanced information as I learn the basics.

I am a horticulture student. I want to start selling plants. I bought 16 packets of plant seeds. All these plants are flowering annuals and perennials. I am growing these plants in my basement in seed trays with florescent lights. I want to sell my plants. How should I begin this adventure?

Program plants seeds of interest in gardening
SKOWHEGAN — “If they open their wings, that means they’re happy or they’re hot,” said Kessea Emerine-Hendren, 10, as she kneeled next to a mesh cage inhabited by nine butterflies.

Read more on Morning Sentinel

Does any one Have a Miracle Bush tomatoes plant or seeds because i cant find any any where! I would be very greatful!

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• miracle bush tomato

You can grow and sell herbs for fun, and profit at the same time! Market seeds to plants plants of such varieties as parsley, dill, basil, cilantro, chervil and thyme, to name a few.

It is surprising that with so many gardeners and the high prices of herbs on the shelves of the supermarkets, that many more haven’t gotten into the lucrative field of herb growing and processing.

When you in the store for herbs and spices, they are usually expensive — $2.00 per ounce and up. Still many still grow wild! Bay leaves for example are available free by the bushel on bay trees that grow all over the south.

Herbs and spices have been around for centuries — they were used in ancient times to mask “funny” tastes in meats that could not be refrigerated, “people odor” before deodorants were invented and of course, to add a little variety to the same foods eaten day after day, because all that was available was what was in season.

Spices were discovered and brought in by caravans to liven up otherwise drab diets and making living “up close” more tolerable. Winters in the European areas were limited to foods that wood keep; potatoes, salted meats, turnips — but nothing green or fresh! When spring came, everyone welcomed the new vigor they found in such “magic” plants as spinach, celery, and various “greens.”

We now know they were replenishing their supplies of vitamins (especially) and minerals that were missing from their winter diets — but they only knew that by eating certain plants, or drinking their juices or “wonder elixirs” they felt better!

We also know a healthy patient recovers from most any aliment better than a frail one — but in those days, “magic” plants were sometimes given credit for healing all sorts of things: even broken bones (bone set)!

In the 18th and 19th centuries (before refrigeration), there was a thriving trade in HERBS to rejuvenate, cleanse the blood and cure just about anything.. To this day, the difference between herbs and species is mainly that spices can be dried for long, overland camel caravan trips; while herbs are fresh and ready use!

To be successful in the herb and spice business, grow things that do well in your area — that you adequate facilities and room for. Of course, you can expand the list of possibilities with a greenhouse and various climate control devices, plus soil manipulation. At the least you will probably need a small greenhouse (or hot frame) to start your plants and perhaps a screened area for growing and/or drying that is secure from insects and other pests.

Not only can you market plants and seeds as individual items, but there is also a lucrative market in blends of herbs and spices. Fortunes have been made with these!

Once you establish a market, make agreements to buy from other growers (even out of state) at wholesale rates of course to enable you to offer a well rounded selection to your customers.

You can also buy or compile booklets on herbs and spices (their history, uses, reputed therapeutic properties and folk lore) that can enhance your sales and profits.

To get started, the first thing to do is some HOMEWORK.

Get several books from the library, local (new, used, half price) bookstores, and mail order (see Business Sources). Find out which plants will do well in your situation by studying their climate, soil and sunlight needs and estimate the market that might be created.

When you decide which ones you would like to try, Learn something of their background (history, medicinal value, folklore, etc.). This is very important in herb farming – people may not be interested in the history of a turnip,,, but mints once used to “clean” eating boards (no dishes) for royalty might catch the fancy of a customer or two.

Make arrangements with a local printer or desk publisher to make nice (and unique) labels for your jars, bundles and packets. Have little folders of information on the more interesting ones — this will help raise the price. When you ship packages of herbs or species, always include some of this type of literature — these are some of your more profitable sales, and you want them to order again!

Some indoor herbs, such as basil are notorious for attracting while flies, a perennial greenhouse pest. They don’t do all that much damage (unless they are really bad), but they are a nuisance and extremely difficult to eradicate.

One way to help control them is to keep herbs that attract pets away from each other as much as possible; another is to move the plants to an outside location where the wind help control the size of the colony.

When confronted with a plant pest fungal problem find out exactly what the problem is — then tale immediate steps to correct it. Too many gardeners and greenhouse growers waste their time, money and plants (to say nothing of needless building of immunities) by erroneous or “too late” treatments.

There are numerous chemical insecticides and fungicides that can help — and many non-chemical (organic) techniques as well.

Rotating crops, picking off pests and introducing natural controls, such as milky spore disease (Japanese beetle, lady-bugs, praying mantis, lizards, (geckos) or frogs and washing with insecticidal soap sprays are considered “natural,” controls, Reuter Laboratories specialize in “natural pesticides, which are sold under the trade name “Attack”.

It may become necessary to decide whether your herb garden will be “normal” organic. In most cases, organically grown herbs are more in demand and bring higher prices.

Your decision may be influenced by the type and number of pests in your area, your luck in controlling them, demand. If you use toxins, be very careful for your own safety, and be informed to protect your prospective customers!

Tip: One of the more effective controls for white flies is malathion, which is usually can be sold or eaten a week later (check the label for accurate instructions).

Some experts tell use that when mixed with some city waters will break down into harmless (to the bugs) solution in as little as 15 minutes! It still smells like it is working for hours, but it isn’t. You can either check on your local water situation or apply malathion fast and in small mixed doses.

Toxic chemicals are rated by a factor called LD. The “acute oral LD factor” indicates how much it takes at the indicated strength to kill 50% of orally dosed specimen (those who eat the treated leaves).

There is also a dermal LD rating that concerns the effect on the nose, throat, eyes and skin (through absorption). The low numbers are more toxic : LD 1 to 50 is highly toxic; LD 500 and above is only slightly toxic.

Most chemical pesticides available today are designed to breakdown into harmless compounds within a week or so, but there are also “hard chemicals” (DDT, Deldrin, Aldrin, Heptachlor, Endrin, Lindane and Chlordane) that remain toxic up to twenty years.

These chemicals normally used only by licensed professionals for things like termite control (where “safe” chemicals would be ineffective). Many growers use some forms of “soft” pesticides (Sevin, Diazinon, Pyrenthins and Malathionn that are effective against pests, but usually not harmful to humans in the plants or are not eaten within 7 to 10 days after the treatment.

When it comes to chemicals there is one cardinal rule: READ THE LABEL!

For an outdoor herb garden in areas where small animals, grasshoppers or too much sun might be a problem, consider erecting a simple shade house.

Some gardeners combine a green house and shade house by constructing a simple enclosure of treated wood, painted metal or plastic, covering it with shade cloth AND 4 to 6 mil plastic for the greenhouse and pulling the plastic back to reveal the shade cloth for a shade house.

A Quonset frame can be used, or a corral constructed of landscape timbers spaced 8 feet apart and connected with treated (or painted) 2 by 4s. Stretch the shade cloth over the frame and apply the plastic — there is your combination shade/green house!

Note that within a shade house, you will need a means of pollination.

If all else fails, use a water color brush to “tickle” the flowers every few days. Herbs generally do not need fertilizing. In most cases, a good compost and a little processed (purified) manure is fine.

If you need an easy way to apply fertilizers on a large scale, consider a siphon attachment on your watering hose. Hyponex makes one that works fine and costs about $10 (retail).

Although it would be worthless as a learning aid for growing herbs, Culpepper’s Complete Herbal (See Bookseller, Sources) is a copy of a 17th century book outlining the uses and powers of the various herbs.

This, and others that tell about their “magical” powers are no longer considered factual, but nonetheless, fascinating — they will help create interest in your herbs!

Marketing your herbs profitably is a matter of finding those with a need (gourmet restaurants and cooks), and coming up with something that is different and interesting.

Check with small stores, health and gift shops. Ask them to try your products — even if it is on consignment. Ordinarily, you can offer a special introductory price to entice shop keepers to try them.

Exposure of both your name and herbs is what you are after at this early stage. Work with a printer to have a display package to show off your products to their best advantage. A poster with a tray of products underneath would be a nice window display.

Meanwhile, advertise (radio, cable TV spots, newspaper ads) in your market area and write some “news release” items for the local paper to help introduce yourself and your products.

Herbs and their accompanying folklore lend themselves well to this approach. Of course, your little articles will also mention where one can get such interesting things!

But magnetic signs on your car and call on as many retailers and restaurants as you can to establish a wholesale route.

Leave samples of your best products with the large, gourmet cooks. When building a route, it is necessary to keep calling on prospective customers — even when they haven’t bought anything. This tends to prove your reliability (why buy from an out of town supplier and pay freight if they can get the same quality delivered?).

Remember that some retailers have been “burned” is the past by those who SAY they are reliable. Since very little actual space and weight is needed for herb delivery, your family car (with signs, of course) will do nicely as your first delivery van.

Tip: offer a plan to place and periodically replace, live, growing plants such as basil to restaurants. This will allow them to advertise that they use fresh herbs!

• Unusual perennial plants bloom in late winter
• Plants are hardy in zones 4 through 9
• 8 to 12 inches high
• Very easy to grow and virtually trouble free
• 4 seeds

Product Description
HELLEBORUS: The genus Helleborus covers a group of perennial plants from Europe and Asia. Virtually all are garden worthy, though the acaulescent (stemless) hybrids have become the most popular forms found in gardens. These perennials are vigorous growers and abundant bloomers in rich, alluring colors like deep red-wine, cherry-blossom pink, to soft, creamy lime and pure, snow white. They are undemanding when provided with just a little shade and well-drained soil.

Hellebores, also known as Lenten or Christmas Roses, are unusual perennial plants in that they bloom in late winter. They are one of the first perennials to bloom. The leathery leaves are evergreen and the single flowers are about 3 ” across. The flowering period can be up to 3 months. Hellebores prefer rich, moist soil and part to full shade. They can be grown in virtually every state in the United States.

This plant has been in cultivation since the Middle Ages and is a welcome sight after Christmas. Plants are hardy in zones 4 through 9 and are 8-12 inches high. They are very easy to grow and virtually trouble free! They make a great, shade groundcover!

Helleborus Pink Lady 4 Seeds

A garden can be quickly filled with color by using annuals and biennials. These plants flower longer than many others and are ideal for filling gaps in a border.

Almost any patch of soil can be transformed into a blaze of color in a matter of weeks by planting nursery-grown annuals, or in two or three months with the plants you grow from direct-sown seeds.

Annuals are plants that grow, flower, produce seeds, and die in one growing season. The most popular kinds provide a longer-lasting display than perennials or bulbs, and they are invaluable for starting a new garden quickly. They can also be used to supply bright accents among shrubs or perennials, under trees, and in containers. Many of these plants provide excellent cut flowers as well.

Most annuals are inexpensive, easy to grow, and available in a broad range of colors and heights.

Plants that are similar in their general effect are biennials. They are started from seeds one year; they flower the next; and then they die.

In mild climates, however, some of the plants grown as annuals may survive the winter (they actually are tender perennials), and some biennials can be grown as annuals.

Annuals are classified in some books and catalogs, and on some seed packets, according to the British system, which divides them into two groups — hardy and half-hardy. Hardy annuals, which tolerate cold weather, can be sown earlier than halfhardy annuals. This terminology often proves more confusing than helpful, however, because it does not apply to all areas of North America. Therefore, it is not used in this book.

The quickest and easiest way to enjoy flowers in the garden is to purchase young annuals or biennials in plant form in spring (also in autumn in the South) and set them directly in the garden. A wide choice of plants is available, but seeds, especially those offered in catalogs, provide an even greater diversity.

Seeds can be given an extra early start (especially in cold regions) by sowing them in a protected and controlled environment. This is almost a necessity for very fine seeds, such as those of the wax begonia; for seeds that need high temperatures to germinate, such as those of the impatiens; and for those plants that are slow to bloom from seeds, such as the vinca, petunia, and ageratum. Seeds can be started indoors if sufficient light and proper temperature are provided (see p. 193), or outdoors if a cold frame or hotbed that protects them from the elements can be located conveniently.

Seeds can also be sown directly outdoors where they are to flower. This is a popular and practical method for plants that bloom quickly, as well as for those that have large seeds (see p. 191).

Biennials, although fewer in number than the annuals or perennials, have some of the showiest garden flowers. Particularly popular are sweet William, Canterbury bell, foxglove, hollyhock, and pansy. They are usually sown in the late spring or early summer outdoors in a protected location.

When biennial seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted in rows to grow until late summer. By then they should be sturdy enough for transplantation to permanent positions or to spend the winter in a cold frame.

Many annuals and biennials have been garden favorites for centuries. A worthwhile advance in recent years has been the development of the F1, first generation, and the F2, second generation, hybrids (the F stands for filial). They are the result of selecting and inbreeding different parent lines of the same plant to get the most desirable characteristics and then cross-pollinating the plants to combine the best characteristics of each.

Several generations of this kind of breeding are required to produce plants of the desired quality. Some home gardeners may be deterred by the relatively high price of the seeds, especially since seeds saved from such hybrid plants will not produce plants of equal vigor or identical color the next year.

But the first generation of flowers grown from F1 hybrid seeds will demonstrate such superiority to the less expensive types that they are well worth the added cost. These hybrids offer clearer colors, more vigor, larger size, greater weather and disease resistance, and better, more uniform growth habits than their forebears.

F2 hybrids are the results of the hybridizers’ attempts to improve the quality without the high cost of the F1 method. This is achieved by selffertilizing the F1′s. In some cases it has worked. Generally, the F2 hybrids are an improvement on standard seeds, though not so spectacular as the F1′s. Most seed catalogs do not mention the designations, but the difference in the price is usually an indication that the most expensive seeds are F1 hybrids or a new variety.

Selecting varieties from a catalog or seed rack can be confusing. In an attempt to simplify the choice, All-America Selections, founded in 1932, began growing new varieties submitted by hybridizers in official test gardens throughout the continent. Those awarded the highest number of points are designated as the All-America Selections, and every seed packet of those varieties is so labeled. The buyer can be assured that these varieties have proven to be superior to other plants under varied climatic and soil conditions.

Among most recent All-Americas are petunia ‘Opera Supreme Pink Morn’, a ground cover that flowers profusely; celosia ‘Fresh Look Gold’, free-branching and weather-tolerant; dianthus ‘Supra Purple’, long-flowering and heat-tolerant; cleome ‘Sparkler Blush’, with pink flowers that turn white with age; gaillardia ‘Arizona Sun’, with dark red flowers with petals tipped in yellow on a spreading plant; and zinnia ‘Magellan Coral’, with fully double flowers on a 12-inch plant. Other All- Americas are indicated by an asterisk on the chart beginning on page 197.

The above is an excerpt from the book The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning – Selection – Propagation – Organic Solutions by Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole. The above excerpt is a digitally scanned reproduction of text from print. Although this excerpt has been proofread, occasional errors may appear due to the scanning process. Please refer to the finished book for accuracy.

Copyright © 2009 Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole, editors of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning – Selection – Propagation – Organic Solutions

Author Bio
Fern Marshall Bradley, co-editor with Trevor Cole of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, is a writer and editor whose favorite topics are gardening and sustainable living. A co-author of Reader’s Digest’s Vegetable Gardening, she also conceived and edited The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Insect and Disease Control, The Expert’s Book of Garden Hints, among others. Bradley is a former gardening books editor for Rodale.

Trevor Cole, co-editor with Fern Marshall Bradley of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, was curator of the Dominion Arboretum in Ottawa, Canada, for over 20 years. He was educated in horticultural science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in the U.K. Cole’s previous offerings include numerous magazine articles and the books Care-Free Plants and The New Ottawa Gardener.